Non-Toxic Sportswear: Why BPA-Free, PFAS-Free and Polyester-Free Activewear Could Be the Future
Sportswear has traditionally been designed around one simple principle: performance first.
Polyester, nylon, elastane and other synthetic fibres transformed the sportswear industry because they are lightweight, durable, stretchy, quick-drying and relatively inexpensive. For decades, these materials have been the foundation of everything from gymwear and running clothing to cycling, outdoor and high-performance activewear.
But the sportswear industry is changing. Consumers are beginning to ask a different question:
What are we actually putting next to our skin when we exercise?
This is driving growing interest in non-toxic sportswear, BPA-free activewear, PFAS-free activewear, polyester-free sportswear and no polyester sportswear.
At Blue Associates Sportswear, we believe this is one of the most important developments in the future of performance clothing.
We have been advocates for sustainable sportswear for more than two decades. Today, our work increasingly goes beyond sustainability and recycled materials. We are heavily involved in researching and developing non-toxic sportswear, natural-fibre technologies and alternatives to conventional petrochemical-based materials.
The objective is simple:
Create high-performance sportswear that is better for the planet and better considered for the person wearing it.
What is non-toxic sportswear?
The term non-toxic sportswear does not have one universally accepted legal definition.
That is important.
A brand should not simply claim that a garment is "non-toxic" because it contains organic cotton, recycled fibres or a sustainable fabric.
A garment is made up of much more than its main fabric.
There can be chemicals and materials associated with:
- Fibres
- Dyes
- Printing inks
- Finishes
- Water-repellent treatments
- Antimicrobial treatments
- Adhesives
- Elastane
- Elastics
- Zips
- Threads
- Coatings
- Membranes
- Trims
- Manufacturing processes
For Blue Associates, non-toxic sportswear means taking a much more comprehensive approach to product development and asking what materials and chemical treatments are actually necessary to achieve the required performance.
It means looking beyond the word "sustainable".
BPA-free sportswear: what is BPA?
One of the chemicals attracting increasing attention in clothing is bisphenol A, commonly known as BPA.
BPA is an industrial chemical used in the manufacture of certain plastics and resins and is recognised as an endocrine-disrupting chemical. It has been extensively studied because of its ability to interact with hormone systems.
Importantly for the sportswear industry, BPA and other bisphenols have been detected in textiles.
A 2017 study published in Environmental Science & Technology analysed 77 textiles and infant clothing products and detected BPA in 82% of the textile samples. The researchers also found particularly high concentrations in some socks, including a 97% polyester fabric marketed for infants.
A later study examining clothing and dermal exposure found BPA and other bisphenols in both conventional and recycled textiles. The researchers found that concentrations varied considerably between garments and that exposure could be higher when textiles were wet with sweat.
Another study found traces of BPA in clothing samples and reported the highest concentrations in polyester garments, while lower levels were found in organic cotton.
This is particularly interesting for activewear.
Sportswear is generally worn:
- Directly against the skin
- For prolonged periods
- During exercise
- In warm conditions
- While sweating
- With significant friction between the garment and skin
That doesn't mean that wearing a polyester sports top automatically exposes someone to a harmful dose of BPA.
But it does raise a reasonable question:
Why would we deliberately introduce potentially concerning chemicals into clothing that is designed to sit against our skin for hours while we exercise?
At Blue Associates, we believe that where a safer alternative can deliver the required performance, it is worth investigating.
BPA-free activewear is already becoming a serious issue
This isn't simply a theoretical discussion.
In 2022, the US-based Center for Environmental Health announced testing of sports bras, leggings, athletic shirts and shorts that it said contained elevated levels of BPA. The organisation subsequently took legal action against a number of brands under California's Proposition 65 framework.
Brands named in CEH's actions included Nike, Athleta, The North Face, Asics, New Balance and others.
This doesn't mean that every product from these companies contains BPA, nor does it establish that wearing their products causes illness.
It does demonstrate something important:
Chemical content in sportswear is becoming a consumer and regulatory issue.
Nike itself has subsequently developed an extensive chemical-management programme and identifies bisphenols among the chemical groups it monitors as part of its cleaner-chemistry strategy. Nike says it has been moving priority chemistries towards cleaner alternatives.
For a huge global sportswear company to have chemical management as a significant part of its product strategy tells us where the industry is heading.
What are PFAS?
Another major area of concern is PFAS – per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances.
PFAS are a very large family of synthetic chemicals that have been used because they provide excellent resistance to:
- Water
- Oil
- Grease
- Stains
- Heat
They have therefore historically been useful in products such as waterproof clothing, stain-resistant fabrics, cookware, food packaging and industrial applications.
They are sometimes called "forever chemicals" because many PFAS are extremely persistent in the environment.
The UK's Environment Agency describes PFAS as thousands of man-made chemicals that can persist for very long periods because of the strength of the carbon-fluorine bonds within their structures.
The US National Institute of Environmental Health Sciences reports that PFAS have been detected in people, wildlife, soil and water, and research has associated exposure to some PFAS with adverse outcomes including immune-system effects, altered metabolism, impaired development and certain cancers.
The US Agency for Toxic Substances and Disease Registry also identifies associations between exposure to certain PFAS and effects including increased cholesterol, reduced antibody response to some vaccines, changes in liver enzymes, pregnancy-related hypertension and certain cancers.
The science around PFAS is complex because there are thousands of individual substances and they do not all behave identically.
But one thing is clear:
PFAS persistence and potential health and environmental impacts have become a major issue for the textile industry.
PFAS-free activewear and outdoor clothing
PFAS have historically been particularly relevant to technical outdoor clothing because of their water- and stain-repellent properties.
A scientific study investigating PFAS chemistry in outdoor apparel found that non-fluorinated finishes could provide similar water repellency to PFAS-treated fabrics in many circumstances. The researchers concluded that PFAS chemistry could be considered unnecessary over-engineering for some outdoor apparel applications.
Another study investigated PFAS-treated functional textiles during outdoor weathering, abrasion and washing. It found that PFAS-containing textile materials could release PFAS-containing fragments and other compounds during weathering and laundering.
This is why PFAS-free activewear and PFAS-free outdoor clothing are becoming increasingly important areas of product development.
The good news is that brands don't necessarily have to sacrifice performance.
Non-fluorinated water-repellent technologies are available, and fabric engineering continues to improve.
Lululemon, Nike and Allbirds: the industry is changing
The biggest sportswear brands demonstrate how rapidly the conversation around chemicals is changing.
Lululemon
Lululemon has faced recent scrutiny concerning PFAS in its products, including an investigation announced by the Texas Attorney General.
Lululemon disputes the suggestion that its current products contain intentionally added PFAS and states that it has phased PFAS out of its products. The company says it requires suppliers to conduct third-party testing and maintains a restricted substances list covering PFAS.
Whatever the eventual outcome of that investigation, the story demonstrates that consumers are now asking questions that would have been unusual a decade ago.
What chemicals are in my leggings?
Nike
Nike has taken a particularly detailed approach to chemical management.
Its cleaner-chemistry programme identifies PFAS, bisphenols, formaldehyde and other substances as chemical priorities. Nike states that it has transitioned several priority chemistries to cleaner alternatives and has specifically worked towards PFAS-free durable water-repellent technologies.
This is a significant shift.
Chemical management is no longer simply a compliance exercise hidden inside a factory.
It is becoming part of product development.
Allbirds
Allbirds is another interesting example because its sustainability proposition has historically focused heavily on replacing petroleum-based synthetics with natural materials.
The company has also developed water-resistant and waterproof products using alternatives to PFC/PFAS chemistry. Its Protect collection, for example, uses a fluorine-free water-resistant coating.
Allbirds' approach demonstrates that performance and reduced reliance on conventional chemical treatments do not necessarily have to be mutually exclusive.
Polyester-free sportswear: can you really remove polyester?
This is where things become particularly interesting.
Polyester-free sportswear is much more challenging than simply replacing one fabric with another.
Polyester has become dominant because it performs exceptionally well.
It is:
- Lightweight
- Strong
- Durable
- Quick drying
- Relatively inexpensive
- Easy to dye
- Easy to engineer
- Available globally
But polyester is also a synthetic polymer largely derived from petrochemical feedstocks.
So while recycled polyester can be preferable to virgin polyester in some environmental contexts, it is still polyester.
That is why we believe the conversation needs to move beyond:
"Is this recycled?"
and towards:
"Do we need this synthetic fibre at all?"
No polyester sportswear: is it possible?
For most products, absolutely.
For others, it is considerably more difficult but not impossible
At Blue Associates, we don't believe that every sportswear garment should automatically be 100% natural.
A high-compression cycling bib short, for example, has very demanding requirements for stretch, recovery, abrasion resistance and durability.
Removing every synthetic component may not currently be technically or commercially realistic.
Instead, we ask:
Where is synthetic fibre genuinely necessary?
Could a running T-shirt use Merino wool and Tencel?
Could a base layer use a natural or regenerated-cellulose fibre?
Could a lifestyle training garment be designed without polyester?
Could mechanical stretch reduce the requirement for elastane?
Could a jacket use a tightly woven natural fibre and a non-fluorinated water-repellent treatment?
These are the questions that lead to genuine innovation.
Sustainability is not the same as non-toxic
This distinction is critical.
A recycled polyester garment can have a better environmental profile than a virgin polyester garment in some respects.
But recycled polyester remains a synthetic polymer.
Likewise, a garment can be made from a natural fibre but still use chemical dyes, finishes or treatments.
Sustainable does not automatically mean non-toxic.
And non-toxic does not automatically mean sustainable.
The two objectives need to be considered together.
At Blue Associates Sportswear, we believe the future is about combining:
Performance + Sustainability + Safer Chemistry + Transparency
How Blue Associates is developing non-toxic sportswear
Blue Associates Sportswear has been designing and developing performance sportswear since 1997 and has worked with more than 500 sportswear brands.
We have been strong advocates for sustainable sportswear for many years, working with an extensive network of fabric and trim suppliers specialising in lower-impact materials and manufacturing.
Today, our focus is developing this further.
We are increasingly involved in non-toxic sportswear, BPA-free activewear, PFAS-free activewear and alternatives to conventional petrochemical-based fibres.
That means looking at the product from the beginning rather than trying to make a conventional sportswear garment "sustainable" at the end of the development process.
We look at:
- Fibre composition
- Fabric construction
- Natural and regenerated fibres
- Polyester alternatives
- Elastane alternatives
- Dyes
- Finishes
- PFAS
- BPA and other bisphenols
- Trims
- Printing
- Manufacturing
- Testing
- Certifications
- Product durability
- End-of-life considerations
We also work with a large network of fabric mills and factories, allowing us to investigate new technologies and materials rather than simply relying on conventional sportswear fabrics.
What should a new sportswear brand ask its supplier?
If you're starting a new activewear or sportswear brand, don't simply ask:
"Is your fabric sustainable?"
Ask better questions.
Ask:
What is the fibre made from?
Is it derived from petrochemicals?
Does it contain polyester?
Does it contain elastane?
Has it been treated with PFAS?
Is it BPA-free?
Has the finished garment been tested?
What dyes and finishes are used?
Does the fabric have OEKO-TEX certification?
What chemical testing has been carried out?
Can you provide documentation from the mill?
The more brands ask these questions, the more the supply chain will have to respond.
The future of sportswear is changing
For decades, the sportswear industry has focused on making garments lighter, stretchier, faster drying, more waterproof and more durable.
Now we need to ask another question:
Can we achieve all of that without unnecessarily exposing people and the environment to problematic chemicals and petrochemical materials?
We believe the answer is increasingly yes.
It won't happen overnight.
Natural fibres have limitations.
Alternative technologies can be more expensive.
Some high-performance applications still require synthetic components.
But fabric technology is developing quickly, and new natural and bio-based performance materials are emerging all the time.
The opportunity for new sportswear brands is enormous.
Instead of simply creating another polyester activewear brand, founders have the opportunity to create something genuinely different:
non-toxic sportswear.
BPA-free activewear.
PFAS-free activewear.
Polyester-free sportswear.
No polyester sportswear.
And ultimately, sportswear that is designed to be better for the rider, better for the athlete and better for the planet.
Developing your own non-toxic sportswear brand? Looking for PFAS and BPA free activewear?
At Blue Associates Sportswear, we can help you take your concept from an initial idea through design, fabric development, sourcing, sampling and production.
Our experience spans gymwear, running, cycling, outdoor, golf, equestrian and other performance categories, with a particular focus on helping ambitious start-up brands develop commercially viable collections.
If you want to explore BPA-free sportswear, PFAS-free activewear, polyester-free sportswear, natural-fibre performancewear or a genuinely non-toxic sportswear collection, speak to our team.
The future of sportswear doesn't have to mean more plastic and more chemicals.
It can mean better materials, better product development and better choices.
Ready to develop your sportswear brand?
Contact Blue Associates Sportswear to discuss your concept and find out how we can help you develop your next collection.
Blue Associates Sportswear – designing and developing performance sportswear since 1997.