Could the leggings, sports bras and performance clothing you wear every day contain toxic chemicals that you would rather keep away from your skin?

Activewear is designed to support a healthy lifestyle. We wear it to the gym, running, cycling, yoga and throughout the day because it is comfortable, breathable and designed to perform. But there is an increasingly important question that sportswear brands and consumers need to consider: what chemicals are present in the fabrics used to make our clothing?

We also need to ask ourselves what the garments are made from and what potential harm wearing synthetic fibres are doing to use when we exercise.

One chemical attracting particular attention is BPA (Bisphenol A), a synthetic industrial chemical associated with the production of certain plastics and resins. BPA has been identified in some polyester-based clothing, including leggings, sports bras and athletic shirts, prompting environmental organisations to take legal action against a number of well-known activewear brands in the United States.

For sportswear brands, this raises an important issue. Performance and cost should not be the only consideration when selecting fabrics. Chemical safety, responsible sourcing and transparency should be part of the product development process from the beginning.

At Blue Associates Sportswear, we believe that the future of performance clothing must combine technical performance with responsible material choices.

What is BPA?

Bisphenol A, commonly known as BPA, is an industrial chemical used primarily in the manufacture of polycarbonate plastics and epoxy resins.

It has traditionally been used in products such as food containers, plastic bottles, protective coatings and other consumer products. It is also a chemical of concern because of its potential to interfere with the body's hormonal systems.

BPA is classified as an endocrine-disrupting chemical. This means it can interact with the endocrine system, which regulates important bodily functions through hormones. It';s therefore imperative we understand more and look to stop the use of these toxic chemicals being used in the creation of performance sportswear.

Research has associated BPA exposure with potential effects on:

• Hormonal regulation and endocrine function.

• Reproductive development and fertility.

• Metabolism and metabolic health.

• Growth and development.

• Development during pregnancy and early life.

The National Institute of Environmental Health Sciences (NIEHS) provides an overview of BPA, its potential health effects and the ways people may be exposed to it.

Further reading: National Institute of Environmental Health Sciences – Bisphenol A (BPA).

It is important to understand that identifying a chemical in a garment does not automatically establish that wearing it will cause harm. The level of exposure, whether the chemical can migrate from the fabric and how much is absorbed by the body are all relevant.

However, the presence of a chemical with recognised endocrine-disrupting properties in clothing deserves proper investigation, particularly when garments are worn directly against the skin for extended periods.

Until finite studies are complete, our advice is simple - : Ask your self if you are willing to risk any of the above highlighted issues due to wearing a pair of leggings or sports bra. Pretty sure the answer would be conclusive and therefore we suggest you look for NON TOXIC sportswear brands. 

Why is BPA being found in sportswear?

One of the concerns raised by environmental organisations is the detection of BPA in polyester-based clothing containing elastane (also known as spandex).

These materials are widely used in modern activewear because they offer stretch, recovery, durability and moisture-management properties.

Polyester and elastane are not, in themselves, proof that a garment contains BPA. BPA is not the defining ingredient of these fibres. Its presence in some tested garments has raised questions about chemical additives, processing, finishes, contamination and other aspects of textile manufacturing.

In October 2022, the US-based Center for Environmental Health (CEH) announced that it had tested sports bras, leggings, athletic shirts and shorts from a range of brands and found products containing BPA.

The organisation subsequently issued legal notices and pursued legal action under California's Proposition 65 legislation.

Its concerns included the possibility that BPA could migrate from clothing and contribute to exposure through prolonged skin contact.

This is particularly relevant to activewear because garments are often worn:

• Directly against the skin.

• For several hours at a time.

• During exercise when the wearer is sweating and pours are open.

• In close-fitting constructions such as leggings, sports bras and cycling clothing.

CEH's findings prompted questions about how chemical safety is monitored across the global sportswear supply chain.

Further reading: Center for Environmental Health – New Testing Shows High Levels of BPA in Sports Bras and Athletic Shirts.

Why have brands like Nike. Lulu Lemon  and Alo Yoga faced legal action over BPA?

Some of the world's most recognisable sportswear brands have been named in legal notices and proceedings relating to alleged BPA exposure from clothing.

In 2023, the Center for Environmental Health pursued a California Proposition 65 case involving numerous fashion and sportswear companies. The proceedings included allegations concerning BPA in polyester and elastane clothing, including products associated with Nike and Alo Yoga.

The claims related to a failure to provide the required warnings about alleged exposure to BPA under California law.

It is important to distinguish between an allegation and a proven finding of wrongdoing. Being named in a legal notice or complaint does not, by itself, establish that a company has been found liable or that every product it sells contains BPA.

The legal action nevertheless demonstrates the growing scrutiny being applied to chemical content in activewear.

What about Lululemon?

Lululemon has also faced California Proposition 65 action, but the case we could verify concerned NDMA (N-Nitrosodimethylamine) in latex yoga mats, rather than BPA in its clothing.

The settlement recorded in October 2023 included reformulation requirements and payments totalling $140,000. It should not be described as a BPA sportswear case.

These distinctions matter. Consumers deserve accurate information, and brands should be held accountable on the basis of properly evidenced claims.

Sources:

• California Attorney General – BPA legal notice and CEH proceedings.

• California Attorney General – Lululemon NDMA settlement.

Can BPA be absorbed through the skin?

This is one of the most important questions surrounding BPA in clothing.

BPA exposure is commonly associated with food and drink, particularly where food comes into contact with certain plastics or epoxy-lined containers. However, skin exposure is also a recognised route of investigation.

Research has demonstrated that BPA can pass through human skin under certain circumstances, such as exercise. The Center for Environmental Health has highlighted studies involving absorption through skin following contact with thermal receipt paper.

Clothing presents a different exposure scenario.

A close-fitting sports bra or pair of leggings may remain in contact with the body for several hours with many customers wearing activewear as their daily wardrobe. During exercise, sweat, body temperature, friction and prolonged contact may influence the migration of chemicals from textiles.

However, the actual level of exposure from clothing is still an area requiring further research as this is a new issue only discovered recently.

The European Commission's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety published an opinion on BPA in clothing in 2021. It acknowledged that BPA had been detected in clothing and considered the potential for skin exposure.

Its assessment concluded that the estimated exposure from clothing did not present a systemic health risk under the scenarios examined. However, the committee also highlighted significant uncertainty because the assessment relied on limited experimental migration data.

This is an important distinction: the presence of BPA is a legitimate chemical-safety and sourcing concern, but the health risk from wearing an individual garment depends on the actual exposure.

Until conclusive research and results are published, we don't really understand the real harm these chemicals are doing to us. Perhaps the action we should be looking to take is to develop activewear that is completely free of such chemicals and toxic synthetic fibres, fibres that are being found in our bodies, including the brain! 

We need to ask ourselves how they migrate into our bodies and organs and what harm are they doing to us. This issue becomes heightened when we think about our children that live in synthetic clothing from many of the big brands.

Further reading: European Commission – Safety of the Presence of Bisphenol A in Clothing Articles.

Why should sportswear brands take BPA seriously?

The activewear market has grown rapidly, with consumers increasingly looking for clothing that supports health, fitness and wellbeing.

Brands invest heavily in developing garments that offer compression, stretch, breathability, moisture management and durability. Yet the chemical composition of the fabric can receive considerably less attention than its performance characteristics. It's been hidden from public and not on the agenda for brands that sell synthetic (plastic) sportswear.

Cost and commercial competitiveness has been the focus for many brands with little to no regard of the ingredients that use to develop their performance sportswear. Margin and market dominance has been their focus, wrapping up these toxic chemicals and fabrics as "Performance" rather than stopping their use and taking a different path.

That needs to change and it needs to change fast.

There are several reasons why chemical safety should be part of every sportswear development programme.

1. Consumer confidence in sportswear

Consumers increasingly want to understand what they are wearing and how products are made. Brands that can demonstrate responsible material selection and transparent sourcing have an opportunity to build greater trust.

Brands that have a traded in plastic sportswear for decades need to become transparent and have a clear message of how they are to change. Consumers need to decide if change is acceptable or if they move to brands that have a more ethical view to creating sportswear that is clean.

Time will tell, but we feel it's going to be a tough switch in approach from brands that have fully understood what goes into their products when they build them and continued to sell these without making a choice for good due to cost and additional work. 

Will consumers continue to trust a brand that sold toxic sportswear for decades, just because legislation and exposure has made them change?

2. Supply-chain transparancy

Sportswear is manufactured through complex international supply chains. Fibre producers, yarn suppliers, knitting mills, dye houses and finishing facilities can all influence the chemical profile of the final garment.

Brands need to understand where their fabrics come from and what testing and chemical-management procedures are in place.

3. Regulatory compliance

Chemical restrictions and product-safety requirements vary between markets. Brands selling internationally must understand the requirements in the UK, Europe and the United States, rather than assuming that a fabric approved for one market automatically meets every other requirement.

4. Long-term brand reputation

A brand's reputation takes years to establish. Poor material choices, inadequate testing or misleading environmental and safety claims can undermine consumer confidence.

Chemical responsibility should therefore be considered at the design and fabric-sourcing stage, not simply once a product reaches production.

Designers and development teams are well aware of the ingredients used when they select their materials. They know there are alternatives available that may require additional additional development to make them work or cost more, but maintaining the use of toxic plastic and chemical ridden fabrics is the faster, cheaper and easier solution, especially as they can wrap these up as "PERFORMANCE"

What are the alternatives to conventional activewear fabrics?

The good news is that sportswear brands have more material choices than ever before.

At Blue Associates Sportswear, we work with an extensive network of quality, ethical and reputable fabric mills and suppliers, giving our clients access to a huge database of performance fabrics, including non-toxic, recycled, natural-fibre and more sustainable alternatives.

Depending on the intended garment and performance requirements, options can include:

Recycled polyester

Recycled polyester can reduce the need for virgin fossil-based raw materials and make use of existing plastic resources. However, recycled polyester is not automatically BPA-free or chemical-free. The finished fabric still needs appropriate chemical controls and testing.

Merino wool

Merino is a natural fibre with excellent temperature regulation, moisture management and odour-control properties. It is particularly useful for outdoor clothing, cycling base layers and performance garments.

TENCEL™ Lyocell

Produced using wood-based cellulose, TENCEL™ Lyocell fibres offer a soft handle, moisture management and a comfortable next-to-skin feel. They can be particularly useful in lifestyle activewear and selected performance applications.

Other plant-based and regenerated fibres

There are innovative materials made using cellulose and other renewable resources. Depending on their construction and processing, these can provide alternatives to conventional synthetic fabrics.

Non-toxic and responsibly processed performance fabrics

There are also specialist mills developing performance textiles with carefully managed chemical inputs, restricted-substance controls and independent certification or testing.

The important point is that no fibre should automatically be considered safe simply because it is natural, recycled or marketed as sustainable. The finished fabric, dyes, finishes, coatings and components all need consideration.

How Blue Associates Sportswear helps brands source better fabrics

Since 1997, Blue Associates Sportswear has helped more than 500 sportswear brands and start-ups design, develop and manufacture performance clothing.

Our approach goes beyond simply finding a fabric that looks and feels right.

We work with a large international network of reputable fabric mills and manufacturing partners, providing access to more than 75,000 performance fabric options through our sourcing network.

This includes:

• Recycled and sustainable performance fabrics.

• Natural and regenerated fibres.

• Alternative materials to conventional petroleum-based fabrics.

• Specialist performance knits and technical fabrics.

• Suppliers able to provide relevant chemical testing and certification information.

We consider the intended use of each garment, the required performance characteristics, the fibre composition, price, minimum order quantities and available testing documentation.

Where chemical safety is a priority, we can help clients investigate supplier declarations, restricted-substance lists, relevant certifications and independent laboratory testing.

Certifications such as OEKO-TEX® STANDARD 100 and bluesign® can provide useful information about textile testing and chemical management, although their scope and requirements differ. They should be checked against the specific fabric and finished product being developed.

Our aim is to help brands make informed decisions rather than simply follow the latest sustainability trend.

Find out more about our sustainable and recycled sportswear sourcing.

The future of activewear needs to be better for people and the planet

The BPA issue highlights a wider challenge facing the global sportswear industry.

Performance, comfort and appearance are no longer enough on their own. Consumers and brands need to consider the complete product: the fibres, dyes, finishes, trims, manufacturing processes, packaging and eventual disposal.

A sustainable garment should not simply be made from recycled materials. It should also be developed responsibly, with careful attention to chemical management, product safety, durability and its environmental impact.

At Blue Associates Sportswear, we believe that responsible material sourcing should be an integral part of developing a new sportswear brand.

Whether you are launching your first gymwear collection, developing premium cycling clothing or expanding an established activewear range, we can help you identify suitable performance fabrics and manage the development process from concept through to production.

Better sportswear starts with better material choices.

Looking to develop a more responsible activewear collection?

Speak to Blue Associates Sportswear about sourcing non-toxic, sustainable and performance-led fabrics for your next collection.

Visit Blue Associates Sportswear or contact our team to discuss your sportswear project.